VII.     BARCELONA

 

Barcelona – Terrain

 

            The Gothic quarter and most of Eixample are basically flat, with a very gradual slope downward toward the waterfront.  Montjuic is a steep hill.  Some of the outer neighborhoods, such as the area around Parc Guell, are hilly. 

 

The vast majority of intersections in the city center have curb ramps or curb cuts. Many curb ramps, especially in the Eixample, span the entire width of the crosswalk. A clever design, this eliminates the common problem of an able-bodied pedestrian standing in and blocking the small ramped area.  Unlike in some European cities, the curb ramps are smooth and continue all the way down to the street; there are no 1” or 2” high ledges presenting obstacles at the bottom.  Many curb ramps are steeper than the U.S. standard of 12:1, but not much.  The only problem is that there is no bevel at the sides – there is a straight vertical edge, which poses a potential danger for a blind person approaching the intersection from the side or standing too close to the edge.  Many restaurants and stores in Barcelona have ramps, albeit short and steep because of space constraints.  Overall, we were impressed with the efforts in Barcelona to provide ramps, both in the streets and in buildings.  

 

Barcelona – Transportation

 

Buses.  We took a couple round trips on different lines.  For a detailed description of the accessible buses, see “Transportation – General,” above.  The ramps worked and the drivers were proficient and courteous.  We didn’t have to wait more than 12 minutes.  In Eixample the streets have truncated corners, a clever, unique innovation in urban planning and street design.  One good effect of this is that the bus ride is smooth around the corners:  turning a corner means turning 45 degrees, going straight for a short distance, then turning 45 degrees again – there are no 90 degree angles. 

 

Funicular (to Montjuic and the Miro Museum).  The station at Avignuda del Paral-lel (near the end of Carrer Nou de la Rambla) is accessible via elevator. The Montjuic Parc station is up many stairs and is accessible via a large, modern, well-maintained stair lift.  There is a gap of several inches between the platform and the funicular car, so some assistance is required.  We don’t advise trying to walk and roll to Montjuic – the streets are extraordinarily steep and some have stairs.

 

Metro.  We didn’t take the Metro but were informed that many stations are accessible.  In various places we saw people in wheelchairs waiting for or emerging from   Metro elevators. 

 

Information.  Transports Metropolitans de Barcelona has a good website with bus and metro information, including an English section.   www.tmb.net. 

 

Taxis.  We contacted our hotel in Barcelona a few days before departure and asked them to order an accessible taxi for our arrival at the airport; upon our arrival an accessible Eurotaxi was waiting.

 

We used:  Juanjo; Monorolumen Adaptado:  Phone 011-34-609-324-006.

 

    Others:    Barna Taxi and Taxi AMIC .   Phone 011-34-934-208-088.

 

                    Barcelona Taxi.  Phone 011-34-933-581-111.

 

 

Barcelona – Hotels

 

Where We Stayed

 

Hotel Apsis Atrium Palace.  Four star.  Gran Via Corts Catalanes, 656.   Phone 011-34-933-428-000; Fax 011-34-933-428-001.   www.hotel-atriumpalace.com.

 

This 80-room hotel, opened in 2003, has much to recommend it.  It’s conveniently located in an elegant neighborhood near Passeig de Grŕcia at the beginning of Eixample, only a few blocks from most of the Modernist architecture yet close enough to walk to the Gothic quarter and the trendy El Born neighborhood.  This 1888 neoclassical building has been carefully restored with attention to detail in a style that is modern and sleek rather than charming.   Our room featured a lovely (though inaccessible) balcony with large doors and a good view; even though it faced the main street Gran Via, it was quiet with the doors closed.

 

Service was attentive and sophisticated; the hotel was spotless; it was very reasonably priced; hi-tech amenities including wi-fi Internet access are prominently featured; the bathrooms are marble; and there are a beautiful (though small and inaccessible) pool, Jacuzzi and sauna.  There is a good café off the lobby.  One nice touch:  a few days before our arrival we received an informative email from the hotel containing sightseeing suggestions, current cultural events and helpful website links.

 

The front entrance has a gradual ramp and electric glass doors.  There is an accessible bathroom off the lobby.  There are two elevators, one small and one smaller.  Howard fit in both but could use the smaller only with the wheelchair footplates in the shortened position.  Although the elevators are too narrow to turn around in, there’s no need to because they have front and rear doors (a design common throughout Spain).  The buttons in the elevators have Braille markings but they and the call buttons in the hallway are very high and difficult to reach.

 

We stayed in room 502.  We were told there are two other identical adapted rooms.  The bedroom is medium size and has a long, wide hallway that enhances the spacious feeling and affords very good turning space.  There is very good natural light, excellent recessed lighting and well-placed light fixtures.  But some important items are inaccessibly high, including the receptacle for the master cardkey necessary to turn on the electricity in the room, and the hair dryer and phone in the bathroom.  The room door is very heavy and has a tight closer; it would be impossible for most people in wheelchairs to open and close the door.

 

The room has two bathrooms – one accessible, which is medium size, and one regular.  Each has a large bathtub; there is no roll-in shower.  The bathtub has one short horizontal grab bar on the side wall and one small built-in handle on each side. So there is no way for most wheelchair users to transfer to the tub.  The shower hose is very long, though it and the controls are hard to reach.  Fortunately, the sink is deep and wide, so one can wash one’s hair using the shower hose.  There is little space on the sink for toiletries and no vanity or shelf.

 

The toilet is problematic.  There is one wall-mounted fold-down grab bar on the side nearest the wall, and no fixed grab bars.  The fold-down bar is too close to the toilet, reducing one’s leverage.  Most important, there is insufficient space between the toilet and the sink for a wheelchair.  Also, the toilet is similar to those common in France – it’s very short (i.e. the distance from the front of the toilet to the wall behind it is short because there is no tank behind the seat).  The toilet height is okay.  Moreover, two toilet paper holders protrude from the back wall, impeding placement of a wheelchair for a side transfer.  So, only someone with a very strong upper body who is able to transfer from the front could transfer to this toilet.

 

If bathroom access weren’t an issue, we’d recommend the Atrium Palace without qualification.  But we recommend it only for wheelchair users traveling with a companion and who either don’t need to transfer to use the toilet or have great upper body strength.

 

Other Hotels to Consider

 

The following hotels told us they have adapted rooms though, except as otherwise indicated, without roll-in showers:

 

Hotel H10 Gravina.  Three star.  One adapted room.  Renovated in 2001.  Gravina, 12.  Phone 011-34-933-016-868; fax 011-34-933-172-838.  www.h10.es; h10.gravina@h10.es.

 

Hotel Majestic.  Four star.  Four adapted rooms.  Passeig de Grŕcia, 68.   Phone 011-34-934-881-717; fax 011-34-934-879-790.  www.hotelmajestic.es reservas@hotelmajestic.es.
 

Le Meridien.  Five star.  Four adapted rooms.  Renovated in 2002.  Ramblas, 111.  Phone 011-34-933-186-200; fax 011-34-933-017-776.  www.lemeridien.com; www.lemeridien-barcelona.com.

 

Prestige Paseo de Gracia.  Four star.  One adapted room.  We were unable to ascertain the existence of a roll-in shower.  Passeig de Gracia, 62.  Phone 011-34-932-724-180; fax 011-34-932-724-181.  www.prestigehotels.com; paseodegracia@prestigehotels.com.

 

Hotels Without Adapted Rooms

 

The following hotels told us they do not have adapted rooms:

 

            Hotel Colon.  Four Star.  Avenida Catedral, 7.  Phone 011-34-933-011-404.  www.hotelcolon.es.  They told us they will be making rooms adapted in the “near future.”

 

            Hotel Neri.  Three or Four Star.  Calle Sant Sever, 5.  Phone 011-34-933-040-655.  www.hotelneri.com.

 

Barcelona – Monuments and Museums

 

Cathedral (Barri Gothic).  There is a steep but short semi-permanent ramp at the side entrance (to the left as one faces the front).  The floor inside is level but most of the chapels are up stairs.

 

Synagogue Mayor (Major Synagogue).  Calle Marlet, 5.  (Near Placa Sant Jaume in the Gothic Quarter.)   Phone 011-34-933-170-790.  www.calldebarcelona.org.  This newly restored synagogue, dating from the late Roman period, is down several steep stairs and isn’t wheelchair accessible.  But if you wait at the entrance in the narrow street, an enthusiastic English-speaking guide will come out and explain the history of the synagogue and Barcelona Jewish history.  The website has good photographs of the interior.

 

La Pedrera (Gaudi’s Casa Mila).  Gaudi’s dazzling, organic masterpiece cannot be described in words.  If you like the photographs of it, you won’t be disappointed; if you don’t, see the real thing before judging it.

 

There is a small but accessible modern (more or less) elevator from the ground floor to the attic.  Be careful backing out of the elevator at the attic – there is a stairway nearby.  The attic, with its famous vaulted brick ceilings supported by catenary arches (an arch shaped like a chain suspended upside-down from two points), has an extensive, well-documented museum with models of many of Gaudi’s projects and thorough explanations of his methods and innovations.  From the attic you can take the same elevator to the roof.  The elevator landing at the roof consists of a steep compound-angled steel floor; anyone in a wheelchair – manual or electric - will require assistance.  From there you can wheel to one small area on the roof; the remainder is full of stairs.  It’s exhilarating to be on the roof and one can see a lot from the accessible area.

 

One apartment (there are four large apartments per floor) has been restored with typical period furniture (but not Gaudi’s furniture) and is part of the tour.  It’s accessed by the old, original elevator from the ground floor.  This is a different elevator from the one to the attic/roof; it’s still used by the apartment tenants (yes, many of the apartments are still being rented and occupied).  Howard just fit with no room to spare; both tires brushed the sides of the doorway.  For people who can transfer easily or stand a bit, a narrow wheelchair is available that fits in this elevator.

 

The employees were very helpful and the audioguide is comprehensive and rich in detail.

 

Casa Battlo.  Gaudi’s expressive, colorful, exuberant and airy masterpiece on the “Street of Discord” was recently restored with careful attention to each extraordinary detail.  The main entrance is level.  However, the only elevator is the original one; it has folding wooden doors and was a couple of inches too narrow for Howard’s wheelchair.  So Howard was admitted for free and given an audioguide.  On the ground level are the entrance lobby with a beautiful stairway, including the wooden “spine” railing, and the radiant courtyard/light well with aqua blue scalloped ceramic tiles.  These areas alone are well worth waiting in a long line.  The complete tour includes the primary residential level, rear terrace, attic and roof.  While Michele toured the inaccessible areas, Howard enjoyed waiting in the lobby and listened to all segments of the superb audioguide to learn about the inaccessible areas.

 

Parc Guell.  Accessible bus 24 from Passeig de Gracia goes to the park, which is located on a hill in the outskirts of Barcelona.  Other bus lines also go there.  The main entrance is at the bottom of the park.  The main bus stop is several streets below the main park entrance, but those streets are extremely steep, the intersections have steep compound angles and vehicular traffic is heavy.  It’s far better to ride the bus uphill past the main entrance and ask the driver to let you off at the upper entrance to the park.  (It may not be an official bus stop but the driver was cooperative.)  From there, a reasonably level path leads to the upper park entrance. 

 

From the upper park level a steep stone path with railings leads down to the Gaudi house/museum.  The house entrance has one stair.  The ground floor is accessible but the basement and upper floor are not. 

 

A series of fairly steep dirt paths leads down from the upper park level to the top of the pavilions (where the beautiful, serpentine benches of colorful ceramics are located), from there to the bottom of the pavilions, and from there to the main (lower) park entrance with its main gate flanked by whimsical buildings.  Howard required some assistance on those paths and a person in a manual wheelchair would need to be pushed in many areas.  Also, each level has stairs on one side and a path on the other, but the path at one level isn’t on the same side as the path at the next level, so it’s necessary to switch sides from one level to the next.  There is a large clean accessible bathroom (with an attentive attendant) near the café at the main (lower) park entrance and a smaller, unattended accessible bathroom near the café at the upper level. 

 

After your visit, we strongly advise backtracking uphill through the park, leaving via the upper entrance and catching the bus there, rather than exiting the main entrance and trying to negotiate the steep streets downhill to the main bus stop.

 

Sagrada Familia.  There are entrances at the front and back, both of which are up steep slopes from the sidewalk. There are tricky compound angles and assistance is required for electric and manual wheelchairs.  The cavernous interior is accessible.  (The interior is cold and windy; a jacket or sweater is advisable no matter the weather.)  One can roll alongside the construction area via wooden walkways with railings; the walkways are steep in a few places and people in manual wheelchairs may require assistance.  The elevator to the tower is up several stairs and is too narrow for a wheelchair.  The large basement has informative, extensive exhibits on Gaudi, including some of Gaudi’s actual models and photographs of construction of the cathedral.  The basement is accessed via a steep ramp and assistance is required for electric and manual wheelchairs. Wheelchair users are charged a reduced admission fee. 

 

Music Palace of Catalonia (Palau de la Musica Catalana).  www.palaumusica.org. This emblematic jewel of Modernist (Catalan Art Nouveau) architecture by Lluis Domenich i Montaner – architect, architectural historian, professor and legislator – was recently restored and modernized with deep respect for its historical significance, unique regional character, rich ornamentation and superb craftsmanship.  Featuring a dramatic stained glass ceiling and windows, gorgeous floral motifs of colorful ceramic, and intricate brickwork, it’s considered one of the world’s most acoustically outstanding concert halls.  The main entrance has stairs just inside the doorway, but there is a level entrance around the corner near the box office.  The main floor and upper balcony are accessible via a modern, medium size elevator.  Other areas are accessible via ramps.  Building tours in English are given a couple times per day; it’s advisable to go there and reserve tour tickets in advance.  Tour tickets may also be purchased on the website.  The guide was knowledgeable, witty and proud of the building and her Catalan heritage.  In Barcelona we tried to get tickets to a concert but they were sold out.  Had we known when we planned the trip how extraordinary this concert hall is, we would have purchased tickets to a concert - any concert - in advance. 

 

Hospital Sant Pau.  St. Antoni M. Claret, 167.  Phone 011-34-932-919-000.  www.santpau.es.  Another Modernist masterwork by Domenich i Montaner, this architecturally and medically innovative complex is off the tourist path but well worth a visit.  In order to afford the patients fresh air and abundant light and prevent the spread of germs, it comprises numerous separate buildings connected by underground tunnels.  It’s easily reached by accessible bus lines, including several lines from the streets that intersect Passeig de Gracia.  The site is a moderately steep hill and is quite windy.  Entering the main hall, with its stained glass windows, vaulted ceilings of rose-colored ceramic brick, arched doorways and ornate mosaics, one knows immediately that this is no ordinary hospital.  The buildings feature turrets, towers, complex brickwork, huge windows and roofs of multicolored ceramic tile.  Some buildings are up steep driveways.  Tours are given once per day; we arrived too late and explored the buildings on our own. 

 

Picasso Museum.  The museum is housed in a series of interconnected ancient palazzos.  The entrance is through a rough cobblestone courtyard, but access is good in the buildings.  The elevator is fairly large.  All changes in level between galleries have permanent ramps, some of which are medium steep.  There is a small accessible bathroom with insufficient transfer space adjacent to the toilet.

 

Miro Museum (Fundacio Joan Miro).  This museum is perched atop Montjuic hill.  The best way to get there is via the funicular.  We had tried rolling/walking from the bottom of the hill but encountered one street with stairs and another far too steep to navigate.  This unattractive concrete building in 1970’s Brutalist style has very good access, abundant natural light and large white walls.  There is a fairly steep slope from the sidewalk to the front entrance; people using electric wheelchairs won’t require assistance but most people in manual wheelchairs probably will.  A large modern glass elevator serves all floors.  All changes in level between galleries on the same floor have permanent ramps, some of which are medium steep.  There is a small accessible bathroom with insufficient transfer space adjacent to the toilet. 

 

Barcelona – Restaurants with Accessible Bathrooms

 

Taller de Tapas.  This tapas bar in the trendy El Born neighborhood has a large variety of delicious tapas.  The fish and seafood are particularly good.

 

Cacao Sampaka. This innovative chocolate café and store in the Eixample serves delicious, intense but not overly sweet hot chocolate, truffles, other chocolates and cocoa beans.  It is the creation of the brother of the E Bulli chef.  There is also a location in Madrid.

 

 

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