XIII.        MADRID

 

Madrid – Terrain

 

Madrid is Western Europe’s highest capital.  The city center is mostly flat, but some areas have gradual slopes.  A few streets have stairs.  Most intersections have curb cuts or curb ramps, but a significant minority does not, especially near Calle Cava Baja (a popular restaurant street), Plaza San Martin (near our hotel) and other old parts of town.  Many intersections do have gradual curb ramps with textured surfaces for blind pedestrians, and many major crosswalks have audible traffic signals.  There are many pedestrian-only zones and streets, and in some of them, the entire street has been raised to sidewalk level (not only at the intersections), which is excellent.  So even though there are some gaps, the city seems to have an aggressive program to install curb ramps and implement more pedestrian zones.  We took two walking tours on wheelchair-friendly routes with no stairs and a minimum of slopes and curbs (see below).

 

Several restaurants we had heard about and wanted to try are up two or three    high stairs, or up one and down two, or the dining room is upstairs.  Although only a minority of restaurants had these barriers, we encountered them more frequently in Madrid than elsewhere.

 

Madrid – Transportation

 

Buses and Metro.  Because the city center is compact and strolling there is enjoyable, we didn’t use public transportation.  We saw many buses with retractable wheelchair ramps at the side door; they appeared to have the same design as those in Barcelona. 

 

The Madrid public transportation company has a good website with an English section.   www.metromadrid.es.

 

Taxis.  We ordered an accessible Eurotaxi one very rainy late morning and waited only 20 minutes.   The driver was terrific.  We also had a good experience taking a taxi to the airport.  Phone 011-34-915-478-200 or 011-34-915-478-500 or 011-34-915-600 or 011-34-915-471-059.

 

Madrid – Hotels

 

Where We Stayed

 

Hotel Intur Palacio San Martin.  Four star.  Placa San Martin, 5.  Phone 011-34-917-015-000; fax 011-34-917-015-010.  www.hotelinturpalacio.com.

 

This 90-room hotel opened three years ago.  It’s centrally located - a five-minute stroll to Plaza Mayor and 15 minutes to the Prado - but the immediate area, including Plaza San Martin, is nondescript and drab.  The hotel is in an old palazzo, but is far less grand than “palazzo” connotes.  The renovation is not well done, with mediocre design and finishes.  The large atrium lobby is a missed opportunity – it could have been grand.

 

One good thing about the hotel is the large, tasty and varied buffet breakfast served in a spacious dining room on the top floor with a good view of Madrid.  A small modern elevator serves this floor; Howard’s wheelchair fit without much room to spare.  Service at the hotel is polite and competent but not as good as one would expect at a four- star hotel.  The room rate seemed somewhat high.  While there is no on-site parking, there is an underground public garage very close.

 

We were in Room 003 on the ground floor, which we were told is the only adapted room.  The bedroom is medium size, with adequate wheelchair maneuvering space.  It is dimly lit; there are only a few lamps and no recessed lighting; the latter could have been installed easily in the dropped ceiling.  The room is partially below ground level; there is some, but not much, natural light through an opaque window on the upper third of the wall.  There is no view and it’s impossible to ascertain the weather by looking out the window.  On the positive side, the light switches and receptacle for the master cardkey necessary to turn on the electricity are low and easily reachable.

 

The bathroom is fairly large, but, unfortunately, the architect squandered its size by poor design.  The only bright spot is side transfer to the toilet.  There is a fixed (wall- and floor-mounted) grab bar at one side, and a wall-hung flip-up grab bar at the other, with plenty of space transfer space next to the toilet when the bar is flipped up.  There is a bathtub with grab bars, and no roll-in shower.  There is no shower curtain, so water splashes on the floor when an able-bodied person showers, and there’s not even a curtain rod, so there is nowhere to hang towels or clothes.  The shower spray hose is just too short to reach the sink, so it’s impossible to wash one’s hair in the sink.  The sink is shallow and a bit unstable.  The faucet handle is small and difficult to reach.  There are no shelves for toiletries. 

 

The bathroom door opens against the toilet, which prevents it from opening completely and complicates access to the toilet, so hotel staff removed it at our request. One of the biggest problems is that the sink is directly opposite the toilet, leaving insufficient space for a wheelchair to face the sink.  So a person in a wheelchair must use the sink from the side, which is extremely awkward.  (This would have been even worse with the door in place.)  Finally, this was our only hotel in Spain where the water temperature fluctuated and the only one with thin, almost threadbare towels.

 

Other Hotels to Consider

 

The following hotels told us they have adapted rooms: 

 

Gran Melia Fenix.  Five star.  We were unable to ascertain the existence of a roll-in shower.  Hermosilla, 2.  Phone 011-34-914-316-700; fax 011-34-915-754-173.  www.solmelia.com.

 

Playa Senator Gran Via.  Four star.  We were unable to ascertain the existence of a roll-in shower.  Renovated in 2002 or 2003.  Gran Via, 21.  Phone 011-34-915-314-151; fax 011-34-915-240-799.  www.hotelsenatorgranvia.com.

 

Hotels Without Adapted Rooms

 

The following hotels told us they do not have adapted rooms:

 

            Hotel Adler.  Five star.  Calle Velazquez 33, Goya 31.  Phone 1-866-376-7831, or 1-305-538-9697 (Miami).  www.epoquehotels.com.

 

            Hotel Arosa (Best Western).  Four star.  Calle Salud, 21 and Gran Via, 29.  Phone 011-34-915-321-600.  www.hotelarosa.com.

 

Hotel Bauza.  Four star.  Calle Goya, 79.  Phone 011-34-914-357-545.  www.hotelbauza.com.

 

           Hotel Carlos V (Best Western).  Three star.  Maestro Victoria, 5.  Phone 011-34-915-314-100.  www.hotelcarlosv.com.

 

           Hotel Opera.  Three star.  Calle Cuesta de Santa Domingo, 2.  Phone 011-34-915-412-800.  www.hotelopera.com.

 

           Hotel Preciados.  Four star.  Preciados, 37.  Phone 011-34-914-544-400.  www.preciadoshotel.com.

 

           Hotel H10 Villa de la Reina.  Four star.  Gran Via, 22.  Phone 011-34-915-239-101.   www.hotelvilladelareina.com.

 

 

Madrid – Tour Guide and Museums

 

Tour Guide.  We had two lively, fascinating walking tours with Englishman Stephen Drake-Jones, the chairman/founder of the Wellington Society of Madrid.  (Go to his website to find out why the Duke of Wellington is important in Madrid history!)  A history professor and raconteur who’s lived in Madrid for 28 years, Stephen has an infectious passion for Madrid, an historian’s grasp of the broad sweep of events, an encyclopedic knowledge of the details and a personal anecdote about every nook and cranny of Madrid.  Stephen proudly designed two wheelchair-friendly routes with no stairs and a minimum of slopes and curbs.

 

Stephen Drake-Jones.  Cell phone 011-34-609-143-203.  www.wellsoc.org; chairman@wellsoc.org.

 

Prado Musuem.  This world-class, do-not-miss museum is very well organized, both in physical layout and thematically.  Access is quite good and the staff was extremely helpful to explain the route, so we had no wasted motion. 

 

The main entrance, the Goya Entrance, is on the north side.  The ground floor entrance is level.  But past the entrance vestibule there are several stairs leading down to the ground floor galleries, with a small stairlift that was too small and had too low a weight capacity for Howard’s wheelchair.  So, in order to access the ground floor galleries, it was necessary to take one of the large elevators near the Goya Entrance up to the first or second floor, go all the way to the other end of the building (near the Murillo Entrance), take an elevator back down to the ground floor and backtrack toward the Goya Entrance.  The elevators near the Murillo Entrance are narrow and not deep; Howard was just able to fit in them.  This process is not as complicated as it sounds, because the building is not extremely long and has a central hallway and a simple floor plan.  All the first and second floor galleries are level.  As you are on the second or first floor anyway, it’s advisable to see those galleries (which feature magnificent paintings by Goya, Velazquez, El Greco, Murillo, Zurburan, Dutch masters, and Rubens and other Flemish masters) before going back down to the ground floor.  Also, the accessible bathroom on the second floor is larger and more modern than the one on the ground floor.

 

On the ground floor, toward the Goya Entrance, there are a handful of galleries (mostly of Flemish painting) up several stairs from the ground floor itself and accessed only by another small stairlift that was too small and had too low a weight capacity for Howard’s wheelchair; these were the only galleries Howard was unable to see.

 

Reina Sofia Museum.  This important collection of European modern art, including Picasso’s Guernica, significant works by Dali and works by less well known Spanish modern artists, is housed in an unpleasant, nondescript old palace.  The entrance is level and the large, modern elevators serve all floors except the basement.  The accessible bathroom is adequate.  All galleries are up one high stair from the main hallway, but each gallery entrance has a ramp with an anti-skid surface.  The café is in the basement, so you need to ask a guard to take you to one of the restricted service elevators.

 

Thyssen Bornemisza Museum.  This cheerful modern building with abundant natural light, wide spaces and an attractive plan has superb access.  The entrance is level, the elevators large, all galleries are level, the accessible bathroom is large and well designed and the gift shop has relatively wide aisles.  The collection is more eclectic than deep.

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